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so i say : fuck the system if you want to save fashion !

September 29, 2010

here’s the column i wrote for the october issue of neo2
probably nothing very new but i just felt i had to say it …

and here’s the english translation :
i have always supported new designers and know i always will …
today i’m angry ! i’m angry for there is no more room for the new designers, the ones who are the new breed, the future of fashion … everything is now linked to advertising, marketing, celebrities, money … profitability has become the main concern when fashion designers never used to have making money as their primary goal … i believe the first house to think that way was yves saint laurent and that was not because of the designer himself but because of a visionary man, pierre bergé, who could foresee the importance of business in fashion though always respecting and prioritizing the domination of the creator … now fashion houses are owned by groups, dominated by investors and not only they want to make money – which in the end is quite legitimate – but they want to make it immediately; they play musical chairs with the latest ‘it’ geniouses without leaving them much time to prove themselves, ruining the image and name of the house (eg. ungaro) …
i’m angry and i’m fed up! fed up with magazines all looking the same, always talking about the same labels, shooting the same pieces from the same brands, using the same photographers/stylists/models …
i’m angry, fed up and disappointed ! disappointed because real journalists seem to have disappeared : where are the true journalists, the ones who actually do investigate, take risks and give their opinion openly ? they have come to a point where they don’t even make the effort to see something new with the pretext that it’s not worth it because in the end they have to ‘pay back’ to the advertisers which hardly leaves room in their pages for the others … when they do admit being tied up to the advertisers ! bloggers could have the necessary freedom and should take it but in general they don’t; they assert having a journalistic role when most of them don’t do much research, take no risk and just go into facility publishing the same info, relating the same things as everyone else, hence making what could be a salutary possibility of individuality another standardized means of expression … but then again back to the power of money : which advertiser, which brand would bear again full expenses to invite someone who’s been criticizing or hasn’t publicized it ?
so i say : fuck the system if you want to save fashion !

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2 Comments leave one →
  1. October 6, 2010 1:50 pm

    Wow brilliant article! I am completely over the “journalists” who work in print magazines. Some of the newspaper ones are still OK – Cathy Horyn, Suzy Menkes ( and also Tim Blanks who I guess writes for Vogue/Style.com) – they do give honest opinions, but they also still focus on the established designers. I think you need to look to regional titles to find the up-and-coming talents. Although saying that, most British magazines and newspapers devote a lot of the space to the new designers in London, but I think that is peculiarly British.

    xx
    Duck

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